If you’re looking for the exotic and a complete change of pace and scene, Cuba will not disappoint. But don’t leave it too long before you go. I spent 10 days there, and the island still has its “picture postcard” allure. Cuba the magical, Cuba the enchanting – the words may be a cliché, but they’re a perfect definition for this big island with its tormented history.
Staying with the locals
Travel agencies recommend “casas particulares”, in other words, private homes, to experience Cuban family life. In practice, this sort of accommodation is just a budget alternative to a hotel. We tried it and, although we didn’t regret it, it wasn’t exactly what we were hoping for. Most of the time, it consists of an apartment that the family doesn’t live in. In some cases you can rent a bedroom in a house, but you won’t see much of the family except when they come to suggest excursions (for which they get a commission) or a meal that will cost you more than in a restaurant. So if you want comfort and hygiene, opt for a hotel.
Staying in comfort
In the heart of Old Havana, the luxury Manzana Kempinski hotel combines the charm of tradition with contemporary comfort. It’s the first luxury hotel on the island. It’s located in a UNESCO-designated historic building from the early 20th century. Its general manager, Xavier Destribas, is French, and, together with Arelis Valiente, the charming PR director, he gave us a memorable welcome. I really have to recommend this magnificent hotel, and in particular its sumptuous terrace with exceptional views of Havana, an infinity pool, and a lovely restaurant specialising in seafood.
Our itinerary
We started in Havana. The town has the enormous charm we were expecting – it’s a step back to the 1950s, with its old open-top American cars, pastel-coloured houses, lively streets, and bars with a background of salsa rhythms where you almost expect “Che” to turn up on his motorbike. But, even more than Havana, it was the attractions of Trinidad that charmed us. The town is overflowing with old buildings; magnificent wooden doors, wrought-iron windows and ceramics, and the colours of the houses are even more vibrant. The next stage of our journey, Cienfuego, was not very interesting. It was at Viñales, where we spent two days, that we really came into contact with the Cuba of ecotourism, tobacco plantations, exceptional landscapes and Cuban country people. However Cuba is also a paradise of silver sand beaches, and we ended our travels on the island of Cayo Levisa. We swam and took it easy, relaxing after our odyssey, before our return.
Visitor info
Getting around in comfort: Of course you can take public transport, but it’s packed, it’s stiflingly hot and you won’t be able to enjoy the views. Via an agency, we rented a car with a driver, which we used for all our outings.
The Internet: You can get online in Cuba. Some hotels provide a connection, and you can buy cards with Internet minutes which let you log on in various places.
Safety: There’s no more violence or fraud than in other places. A strong police presence discourages crime. You only need to take the usual precautions.
About jet lag: The time difference means you’ll want to take it easy for the first days. For a natural boost, I tested a mint-flavoured chewing gum, which you use once or twice a day as needed. It’s vegan, with no GM ingredients, gluten-free, sugar-free and aspartame-free. https://neurogum.com
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